Along with product quality and a fashionable appearance – skin compatibility and proof of absence of harmful substances – are amongst the most important considerations when buying apparel.

This is one of the results of a survey commissioned by the German Oeko-Tex Certification Centre and administered by the consulting firm BBE Retail Experts.

Some 205 apparel professionals provided this assessment in a BBE questionnaire administered in conjunction with CPD, the International Fashion Fair for Womenswear and Accessories which was held in Düsseldorf in January.

Their responses confirm the results of a study carried out in 2006 by the GfK Group in which 1,046 people in Germany were surveyed about their purchasing behaviour and awareness of textile symbols.

The fact that Oeko Tex Standard 100 is far and away the best-known textile symbol on the German market is indicated by parallels between responses from retail traders (79%) and consumers (46%) showing a high level of awareness of the label "Confidence in Textiles – tested for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100".

Some 61% of the respondents to the latest survey found hangtags, or other labels indicating the product has been found free of harmful substances, significant or very significant tools for advising customers and making sales. This was particularly true for specialist retailers (61%), and department and clothing stores (81%).

An attached product label was found to be less relevant (46%) for mail order sales. This can understandably be attributed to the delivery of mail order product information primarily on the internet or in catalogues, etc.

In general, the desire for more labelling of certified textiles was positive (72%), particularly in shops where opportunities to gain advice from sales personnel are limited and consumers are likely to have to inform themselves. Specialist (67%) and mail order retailers (69%), however, also said they would welcome it if apparel found free of harmful substances were made easier to identify by labelling on the product. Other aspects, such as product quality or fashionable appearance were found likely to have greater influence on ordering behaviour, with textile symbols being significant for only 37% of the respondents. Most felt textile safety should be a prerequisite, and that labels are principally intended to emphasise this to the consumer. Some 37% of the employees of specialised dealers said they felt they had been adequately informed about tests for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100. Of the respondents, some 35% said they would like more comprehensive information. Meanwhile, most (53%) said they considered the internet their preferred source of information, rather than conversations with suppliers (34%), or articles in trade journals and magazines (28%). The German Oeko-Tex Certification Centre in Eschborn will incorporate these results in the development of an information concept aimed at specialist dealers. In addition to tried-and-true mailings and intensive co-operation with specialist media, interactive on-line tutorials and events together with manufacturers are planned.

Hohenstein GmbH