2008-4-17
By : El-Sayed M.A.M, Suzan H. Sanad, A. M. Mohamed
Abstract
An important and target aspect of the fiber-to-yarn production process is the quality and price of the resulting yarn. The yarn should have optimal product characteristics, while maintaining as low a price as possible. To meet this target, Giza 85 Egyptian cotton variety, was chosen and blended with Sudanese Upland cotton (Acala) and also, with Greek Upland cotton. Ten different combinations of blend levels including the 100 % fiber types were performed for two different spinning systems, open-end yarn counts of 25 Ne and 35 Ne and also, 30 Ne and 40Ne for ring spinning, at constant twist multiplier 4.0.
Giza 85, Egyptian cotton variety is of higher quality than the two upland cotton varieties especially in fiber strength, length uniformity, fiber fineness, and elongation while of low spinning waste. The addition of different ratios of Giza 85 cotton fiber improved the mechanical properties of the Greek and Sudanese cotton yarns. The Uster provisional 5%, 25% and 50% yarn strength quality levels were suggested for using the Egyptian/Greek or Sudanese cotton blending, in order to achieve optimum yarn quality properties and to reduce and control the raw material cost. The spinners cost could be reduced by trying different combinations of cotton qualities until matching the one that still allows for the required yarn properties is found.
Keyword: Egyptian and Upland cotton, blend, ring and open spinning system
Introduction
An important and target aspect of the fiber-to-yarn production process is the quality and price of the resulting yarn. The yarn should have optimal product characteristics, while maintaining as low a price as possible.
Cotton yarns classed internationally into three categories: (1) coarse yarns: of count up to 24s. Such counts could be spun from MS and MLS cottons, to be used for manufacturing cheap fabrics, towels, upholstery fabrics, etc.; (2) Medium yarns: of count 24 up to 42s. Such count could be spun from MLS cottons, to be used for manufacturing cheap poplins, knitting fabrics, etc.; (3) Fine yarns: of count 42 up to 60s and above. Such counts could be spun from LS and ELS cottons, to be used for manufacturing high quality poplins and clothes, Abdel-Salam (1998). Blending of two or more different fiber types is of crucial significance to the textile industry, Cookson (2000) reported that several interrelated factors might contribute to the decision to replace a homogeneous textile material by a blend:
- Economy: The decrease of an expensive fiber by blending with a cheaper one.
- Durability: The incorporation of a more durable component to extend the useful life of a less durable fiber.
- Physical properties: A compromise to take advantage of desirable performance characteristics contributed by both fiber components.
- Color: The ability to develop novel designs incorporating multi-color effects.
- Appearance: The attainment of attractive appearance and tactile qualities using combinations of yarns with, for example, different luster.
Fiber blending is the process of combining different fiber components, together either of the same fiber type or of different fiber types to produce a fiber strand (sliver or yarn) of consistent desirable characteristics. The economical impact of fiber blending is well recognized. The cost of raw material is the most important economical factor in the make of a spun yarn. The smallest saving in the cost of raw material could mean a substantial increase in the companys profit. Proper fiber blending can lead to a substantial reduction in the cost of yarn manufacturing. A textile process may use different types of cotton with different quality attributes and prices. The process of fiber blending should aim at optimizing the cost of the cotton mix with respect to the desired levels of fiber properties and inventory constraints, El Mogahzy (2000).
One of the important production processes in the textile industry is the spinning process. Starting with cotton fibers, yarns are (usually) created on a rotor or ring-spinning machine. The quality of the resulting yarn is very important in determining their possible applications. The three most important characteristics of a yarn are: tenacity, elongation and corresponding price. The first two characteristics are physical yarn characteristics, while the third is the price of producing the yarn. The price depends on the blend of fiber qualities used in the fiber-to-yarn production process, van Langenhove (2002).
Karapinar and Erdem (2003) reported that the rapid development in the textile industry has also caused some of the physical properties of cotton fibers to become more important. It could be stated that the following main factors affect the yarn properties: Fiber properties, and Process parameters: yarn count and yarn twist; blend ratio (1st fibre/2nd fiber); re-used waste fibers; waste that is removed (short fiber ratio), preparation processes: machinery (types and adjustments); spinning systems (types and adjustments)
According to the international cotton yarn classification, both Long Staple and Extra-Long Staple Egyptian cottons fall in the category of Extra-Fine count, i.e. that group of cottons that could be spun into yarn count of 45s and higher. Mohamed et al (2005) reported that the major problem and challenge facing the Egyptian cotton textile industry is that Egyptian cotton has two distinct markets: the international market for producing fine and extra fine yarns and the domestic market for producing mainly coarse and medium count yarns.
The textile industry in Egypt needs cheaper cotton to cover the demand of the domestic market i.e. coarse and medium yarn counts. So, there is a cotton gab especially MLS cottons in this respect, the Textile Industries Holding Company in Egypt supply Greek and Sudanese MLS cottons to close this gab to produce coarse and medium counts for local consumptions. Furthermore, the produced and exported yarn count level in the Egyptian spinning mills is around 28.5s, as much as 10-15 percent higher or lower using the Long-staple cotton varieties, Table 1 (Textile Industries Holding Co.(2006) and Textile consolidation fund, 2006).
Table 1. Development of exported cotton yarn count-wise from 1994: 2006
Count-wise |
Average from 1994 - 1996 |
Average from 2004 - 2006 |
Ton |
Count average |
% |
Ton |
Count average |
% |
Less than 20s |
14093 |
16.6 |
21.4 |
7227 |
14.57 |
23.3 |
21s 30s |
30112 |
29 |
45.9 |
9117 |
29 |
29.7 |
31s 40s |
13169 |
37 |
19.4 |
4663 |
37.7 |
15.1 |
41s 50 |
1896 |
49 |
3.0 |
2177 |
48.7 |
7.0 |
Total L S cotton |
59270 |
28.2 |
89.7 |
23185 |
28.2 |
75.1 |
51s 60s |
13000 |
58.7 |
4.9 |
2343 |
58.3 |
7.6 |
61s 70s |
1030 |
68 |
1.7 |
653 |
68.7 |
2.2 |
71s 80s |
1777 |
77.7 |
2.5 |
2184 |
76.9 |
7.2 |
81s 90 |
267 |
85 |
0.4 |
622 |
85.2 |
2.1 |
From 91s and above |
376 |
95.7 |
0.58 |
1715 |
100.4 |
5.8 |
Total E L S cotton |
6449 |
68.3 |
10.3 |
7553 |
76.3 |
24.9 |
Total exported cotton yarns |
65719 |
|
100 |
|
|
100 |
The objective of this investigation was to study the quality characteristics of yarn spun from Egyptian cotton and its blends with Upland cottons to create an optimum quality yarns, and the usefulness of blending Egyptian/Upland cottons as a potential way of reducing the costs of popular fabrics.
Materials and Methods
The present study was carried out in Kom-Hamada, El Mahmoudia and Mit Ghamr spinning and weaving companies and Cotton Research Institute. Giza 85 Egyptian cotton variety (A) was chosen due to its color parameters and fiber length, and blended at different ten blend ratios for both Greek upland cotton (E) and Sudanese cotton (J). Cottons A, E and J were processed individually and carded at 3.54 g/m card sliver. Different Blend ratios were made at drawing frame with eight doubling to form six batches of second-drawing sliver of 3.20 g/m. The slivers of ten different blendes were supplied to the Schlafhorst Auotocoro 288 OE rotor spinning at rotor speed of 110,000 rpm for producing 25Ne and 35Ne and for producing 1.2 Ne roving for ring spinning at yarn size of 30 Ne and 40Ne. both OE and ring yarns were spun at constant twist multiplier 4.0.
Table 2. Processing outline
|
Blending ratios and symbols |
Blends |
A 100% G. 85 / 0% Gr. cotton |
F 100% G. 85 / 0% Acala cotton |
B 75% G. 85 / 25% Gr. cotton |
G 75%G. 85 / 25% Acala cotton |
C 50% G. 85 / 50% Gr. cotton |
H 50%G. 85 / 50% Acala cotton |
D 25% G. 85 / 75% Gr. cotton |
I 25%G. 85 / 75% Acala cotton |
E<, SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"> 0% G. 85 / 100%Gr. cotton |
J 0% G. 85 / 100%Acala cotton |
Spinning system |
Ring |
Open-End |
Ring |
Open-End |
Yarn count |
30s |
40s |
25s |
35s |
30s |
40s |
25s |
35s |
Twist multiplier |
4.0 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cotton fiber and yarn properties were determined according to ASTM method by using HVI Spectrum and Micromat. Yarn strength expressed in terms of Lea Count Strength Product (LCSP) was measured by using the Good-Brand Lea Tester. Single yarn properties and yarn uniformity, imperfections and hairiness were measured on Textechno Statimat Me tensile tester and Uster Tester III, respectively. The results were compared with the Uster provisional 5%, 25% and 50% quality levels (Zellweger Uster, 2001). Fiber and yarn properties were determined at the Cotton Technology Research Laboratories, Cotton Research Institute, Giza, Egypt.
Results and Discussion
Fiber properties
Table 3 shows the quality properties of Egyptian cotton Giza 85, Upland Greek cotton and Acala Sudanese cottons. Naturally, the fiber quality of Egyptian cotton variety is higher than the two upland cotton varieties mainly, in fiber strength, fiber length, length uniformity, fiber fineness, fiber elongation and especially in short fiber index which reached in some samples of Greek and Acala cottons reached to 18.0 % accompanied by the lowest length uniformity, being 79%.
Table 3. Fiber quality properties of Giza 85, Greek and Acala cottons
|
Giza 85 |
Greek Cotton |
Acala Cotton |
Upper Half Mean mm. |
30.2 |
27.8 |
26.5 |
Uniformity Index (%) |
86.5 |
82.3 |
82.1 |
Short fiber index |
7.8 |
13.8 |
15.5 |
Strength cN/Tex) |
40.8 |
31.7 |
28.8 |
Elongation (%) |
6.7 |
6.4 |
5.8 |
Micronaire value |
4.0 |
4.0 |
4.1 |
Maturity |
93 |
91 |
91 |
Fineness |
141 |
172 |
175 |
Reflectance Rd% |
74.4 |
73.4 |
74.2 |
Yellowness +b |
9.3 |
9.3 |
9.5 |
Mechanical properties
The lea count strength product, single yarn strength and elongation of open-end and ring yarns spun from Giza 85 and its blends with Greek and Sudanese cottons are given in Tables 4, 5, 6 and 7. The results indicated statistical significant difference in lea count strength product and single yarn strength means of all blended open-end and ring yarns. Giza 85 cotton variety recorded the highest and superior quality of lea count strength product and single yarn strength (cN/Tex), while as, Greek and Sudanese cottons showed the lowest yarn quality. In both spinning systems and yarn counts, the addition of different ratio of Giza 85 cotton fiber improved the mechanical properties of the Greek and Sudanese cottons. The fact that long and strong fiber produced strong yarn held true for the two spinning systems used in this study.
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